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Whenever curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. Yet, nestled high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the family utterly astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” states the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small shop securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.